Because I've covered the bottom half of the San Gabriel River's East Fork wonderland pretty extensively, I've decided that it's time I did my bit to increase trail traffic up the canyon and write about a couple of my long kept secret spots for rip-lipping fun catching very crafty native rainbows and increasing your luck in panning for gold of engaging in a little nugget shooting.
So let's hunch a little deeper into our rucks, check to make sure we have a lot of water, at least three days worth of high energy chow, a good basic rod and reel and some basic understanding of terrestrial directions. I wan to write about the real East Fork wilderness, which begins on the upstream side of the Bridge to Nowhere and goes all the way to Wrightwood, on the northern face of the San Gabriels.
Hiking up to Wrightwood is no small undertaking. It's 25 miles or so of back country humping that's guaranteed to teach you the real meaning of the elevation lines on the topo or quarter section map you should have stashed in your back pack before you begin this ass kicking journey. If you're a dedicated wild trout fisherman you may not find a prettier or more challenging section of any river to fish than the upper reaches of the East Fork.
Warnings!
If you attempt this hike be cure to take a jacket and enough food to last 23 rugged miles. And the first thing you should do is check in at the East Fork Ranger Station to make sure someone knows you're on the trail, and what your destinations are. Also, the Ranger station-- which staffs the wilderness patrols that hike the upper East Fork regularly, will have current information on trail closures and the trail conditions.
Do not make the mistake of thinking a cellphone is a good safety device. Unless you're able to make from the water's edge to the tip top of a 5000 foot Peak like Iron Mountain, you're not going to be able to connect to a cell network until you get in range of the towers in Wrightwood or along the Angeles Crest Highway.
Once you've checked in , it's time to begin the first day's slog-- about 9 miles from the East Fork Ranger Station, over the Bridge to Nowhere, Past the East Fork Narrows and on to the primitive campground at Iron Fork, which makes a good first day's overnight destination and takes about six hours of trail time.
Do take time to poke around the East Fork and Iron Fork for native rainbows. You'll find them hiding in deep holes and along the undercut banks in their home riparian habitat. I've had a lot of success fishing this stretch of the East Fork and its tributaries using flies, salmon eggs and a variety of lures (including my two all time favorites: a red and gold Colorado spinner, and a small red and white rooster tail). This far up the river, I only use barbless hooks and unless I have a really big 'bow, I practice catch and release fishing.
Heading up the East Fork you're next two destinations are relatively unknown primitive campgrounds: the aptly named Fish Fork and the almost never visited Prairie Forks.
Growing up, I benefited from the in depth piscatorial knowledge of East Fork legend, the late Sedley Peck and his wife Flo. Hiking up the East Fork, I'D often encounter Sedley, trailing up or down the canyon. In addition to an encyclopedic knowledge of gold mining in the San Gabriels, Sedley was a saint for pointing us to under fished holes way up in the canyon. He was almost always right and the contents of my creel often attested to it.
Meanwhile, back to the East Fork and the uphill slog towards Wrightwood: Based on my observations, as well as a small handful of other regular wildlands fishermen I know, the trout population between Fish Fork and Prairie Forks may be much denser than you might suspect. I know of several fishermen who have taken 18-19-inch native rainbows between these two destinations in cold clear water. The biggest rainbow I've ever caught in this section was about 16-inches, and I took it about 1.5 miles upstream of Iron Fork.
It's been a while since I've been up to Prairie Forks, but what I remember is seeing numerous trout jumping after bugs on the afternoon hatch, and hooking a couple of tubby one-pounders that delivered impressive tail walking displays in an effort to throw my hook.
But amateur gold panners can have as much fun as serious fishermen in the upper reaches of the East Fork. Work a few pans of gravel and sand and you're very likely to find a little "color." It's the persistent memory of finding color above the confluence of Iron Fork and the East Fork, as well as similar waters around Fish Fork that makes me believe this section of the Angeles is definitely worth exploring on a casual basis. Beside, there's this little glass bottle here on my desk that contains enough gold flakes to keep me interested.
The home stretch of this hike-- up to the end of th trail in Wrightwood is a tough slog at altitude, do stock up on carbs for your final meal before hitting civilization and meeting your ride home.
If you're afraid of an uphill hike, but want to fish wild sections of the East Fork, there's nothing wrong with making it a down-hill jaunt by starting at Wrightwood and humping down to the East Fork Ranger Station.
Some final words of caution; check in at ranger stations before you begin and notify the rangers before you head home. Tread lightly, practice catch and release fishing and take out all your trash.
One final tip from an old East Fork hiker. if you go up in the Spring when there's still snow on the surrounding slopes, be aware of changes in the weather. If you get caught in a warm rain, get out. Fast.
The East Fork can come up two or three chilly feet from snow melt in a very short time. Having said that, on one trip in the sixties my buddies and i raced down from Iron Fork in a warm rain in about 5.25 hours. By the time we loaded into a car for the ride home to Azusa, the background noise from the river had gone from a persistent gurgle to a loud roar as the East Fork went quickly into ripping flood mode.
Have fun, catch a couple of trout for me and maybe wash one or two pans of gravel and sand, looking for gold. And if you're up there on 11/08, I'll be the big old dude huffing up the canyon with an old red ruck with a rod and reel strapped to its side.--Jim Forbes East Fork bound later this week.